The Italians are generous hosts to a fault, as anyone who has done business in the country will testify. Invariably, there will be a dinner in a local restaurant, which, particularly in the north of the country, may well be concluded with a glass of grappa.

In days gone by, the sound of the grappa trolley rattling its way slowly towards the table could induce fear among guests facing the prospect of having to swallow some obscure and fiery paint-stripper-­like spirit distilled in the mountains.