Maria Luisa, daughter of the King of Austria, married Napoleon Bonaparte in 1803 and became the Duchessa di Parma. Among other delightful qualities attributed to her, was her good nature and her joy in feasting and socializing, a tradition that still prevails in this pretty, dignified town. Parmagianni revere her memory, and so it was no surprise to find an homage to her on the menu at Angiol d’Or. Here, the cuisine of Parma has been perfected.

From the cookbook of Chef Vincenzo Agnolotti to the Duchessa, compiled in 1832: Beef tongue and jelly; soup of fresh green peas with cream; rabbit crisply fried and served alla Milanese. But there are other enticements here. The area’s specialties, Parmigiano-Reggiano, prosciutto and balsamico from nearby Modena, have made a permanent imprint on the global culinary consciousness. As important to our well-being, I’d say, as the gifts to civilization of famous Parmigianis: Verdi, Paganini, Toscanini and Correggio.