The Mediterranean’s largest island is perhaps its least known among holidaymakers. Where the Balearics have enduring mass appeal and Sardinia has made a name for itself as the region’s glitzy go-to, Sicily is harder to define. Primarily visited by Italians, it remains a geographical and cultural crossroads, where centuries of invasions – including by Romans, Greeks, Normans and Arabs – have left a legacy of cultural richesse that manifests itself in the island’s architecture, arts, cuisine and traditions.

That’s not to say that it’s stuck in the past. Indeed, Palermo, the island’s capital, is this year’s Italian Capital of Culture – with a varied programme of forward-thinking events that include a beer festival this week – and host of Manifesta 12, a European biennial contemporary arts festival that starts on 16 June and runs until November. Ultimately, Sicily is a modest beauty, which is an intrinsic part of its appeal.