After three eventful days in Naples, we rented a car and drove over the mountain pass to the Amalfi Coast, the iconic site of southern affluence and prosperity. The Amalfi Coast is another of those iconic, idealized images of the South too often portrayed in American magazines. After three days, we drove to Paestum, renowned for its Greek temples. Not to be missed, its temples rival any in Greece or Sicily. Its new museum is an education in Greek and Roman history.

After our stop, we went further south to Maratea, another of the South’s best kept secrets. On the street I spoke with a middle-aged resident and complimented her on the well-preserved state of her village, quiet even at mid-morning. She was quick to add that they are very careful to preserve its historic character, evident in the careful remodeling of every building that lines its narrow streets and those that surround its spacious central piazza.