IT IS 6pm, twilight, dusky and I am making my way through the narrow streets and alleyways of one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Ahead of me is a codega, or guide, clad in the costume of the traditional Venetian, holding aloft a lantern that glints off her mask. In all the time that we are together, I never actually see her face.

But that is somehow appropriate for this is Venice, the city of intrigue and masked balls, the city of Casanova and carnivals. Our codega is a tour guide, but they were historical figures, literally guiding and guarding rich noblemen, merchants and visitors around the city.