MUCH OF RAVENNA seems perpetually soaked in the colors of autumn. Amid alleys crammed with gelato shops, cafés, and souvenir stores, fifth- and sixth-century churches, mausoleums, and baptisteries stand out with their ochre and fawn facades. But the real surprise lies inside their walls and domes, where millions of sparkling mosaic tiles reveal stories of Ravenna throughout history.

Located in northern Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, just a 3.5-hour train ride from Rome, the city was the capital of the Roman Empire in the early fifth century, ruled by the Goths circa late fifth century, and under Byzantine Italy until the eighth. These rulers passionately nurtured mosaic art, the results of which are beautifully preserved within eight UNESCO World Heritagemonuments in the pedestrian-only city center. Here’s how to make the most of a weekend in the city of mosaics.