Pop culture has the uncanny ability to turn lovely, enduring ideas into superficial fads. Take the recent arc of Moscato, a wine from Italy with a storied history. Six years ago, headlines boldly declared America to be in the grips of “Moscato Madness,” before the wine tumbled out of fashion. Yet, Moscato held court long before that, and will do so for a time long to come.

The word “Moscato” may conjure images of sweet, pink bubbly wine, but it’s technically just the Italian word for the Muscat family of grapes. Multiple varieties grow throughout Italy and the world, and are made into still, sparkling, sweet and fortified wines.