In the heart of Emilia‑Romagna, northern Italy, vast climate‑controlled warehouses hide one of the country’s most valuable assets. Towering shelves hold hundreds of thousands of wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano aging slowly, quietly and becoming more valuable with every passing month.
To outsiders, it looks like a cathedral of cheese. To Italy’s dairy producers, it is a lifeline. Parmigiano Reggiano is one of the world’s most tightly regulated foods. It can only be produced in a small, designated area using three ingredients — milk, salt and rennet — and it must age for at least 12 months before it can be sold. Many wheels mature for 24, 36, or even 40 months.