Sometimes, and often when it's least expected, you stumble across a restaurant that just seems to radiate joy. There's that frisson of buoyant anticipation as you walk in and an enveloping happiness that accompanies you to whatever table happens to be open. It doesn't matter which one, they all seem to be equally great. That democratically distributed charm is more assured when the restaurant is small, let's say, perhaps, 39 or so seats.
Coincidentally, that is exactly the number of chairs at Molte Bene Italian Eatery, which right now occupies the bright center of that aforementioned joy. That warm radiant quality is in full effect in the eatery, a little country cottage-styled structure improbably placed in the asphalt jungle of upper Detroit Road in Lakewood. Light-filled late summer afternoons soften into a romantic glow at night, courtesy of a galaxy of twinkle lights tucked into white tulle curtains.
