The eastern coast of Sicily is home to the island’s second-largest city Catania, known enigmatically as “the black city”. The color of its buildings, covered in the inky hues of volcanic ash, is testament to the ever-present threat of Mount Etna.

Yet, despite the repeated destruction wrought by the volatile mountain, the city has risen from its ashes time and time again, emerging more resplendent with each rebirth. Catania’s most recent iteration, however, makes us seriously question this “black” moniker: a vibrant, colorful scene has emerged, marked by young Sicilian artists, reclaimed spaces, and abundant nightlife options.