Genoa once rivalled Venice for maritime importance and its huge intact medieval core, just a stroll inland from the port, is stuffed with vivid reminders of the past. The capital of Italy's Liguria province, Genoa's gritty charm permeates this network of narrow lanes and its historic centre that has been granted Unesco World Heritage status.

Lined with old merchants' homes and historic stores selling fragrant pesto and slabs of salty focaccia bread topped with homemade salami, it's an atmospheric district dominated by 150 Renaissance palazzi where richly frescoed ceilings top tiny, well-preserved salons.