The pool was empty – perhaps because at about 22C, the water was too cold for Italians. It was also about to close. Whatever the reason, we had the glorious Biolago di Pinzolo, a spring-fed, plant-filtered swimming lake, to ourselves. As my son and I swam, we could just make out the tiny red-roofed hermitage of San Martino on the forested slope above, where, according to legend, a hermit survived on bread provided by a tame bear.

We’d come to the mountains of northern Italy for an alternative family break, away from the honeypot cities and beach resorts further south. After our swim we strolled through Parco Pineta, where families were picnicking and teens were making the most of the many sports pitches and skateboard bowl. There seemed to be something for everyone – even the local insect pollinators were catered for with a roped-off patch of wildflowers and a bee hotel.