I knew I had to get to Stellina Alimentari, the new cafe from the owners of Stellina Pronto, as soon as chef Mark Malicki (who has a new project of his own — more on this next week) described the porchetta sandwich with such wistfulness it was almost heartbreaking.

The Della Fattoria lemon rosemary bread, the salsa verde and the porchetta juice that runs down your wrists are heaven. Chefs always have a thing about porchetta — a boneless pork roast wrapped like a jelly roll with crispy skin inside and out.