Italian little Italies: Buccheri, Wellness Oasis of the Iblei
- WTI Magazine #179 Sep 21, 2024
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On Colle Terreo the remains of the Norman castle can be visited, of which some important evidence remains today. Not far away, among the elements of religious architecture, is the S. Antonio Abate Church, which dominates the town from the top of a scenic flight of steps (built in 1911); inside the church interesting paintings by G. Borremans from 1728.
Going down Via Vittorio Emanuele, we encounter the spectacular church of S. Maria Maddalena inside which is preserved a magnificent marble statue by Antonello Gagini dedicated to her. Moving down Via Ignazio Barberi, we find the Mother Church, with an incomplete facade and inside a 16th-century wooden crucifix, a 17th-century painting depicting St. Michael in the left aisle and a painting depicting St. Ambrose, patron saint of the town, from the mid-18th century.
Going up Via Ignazio Barberi we come to Piazza Roma where the Fountain of the Four Canals is located, which was built in the 16th century and made entirely of lava stone. It was actually inaugurated in 1585 and has never ceased to fulfill its task. The four masks from which the water gushes continue to be mute witnesses to nearly half a millennium of history. For several years already it has been listed as one of the “Historical Monuments ” to visit in Buccheri.
Moving toward the south side of the town, on the Calvary Mountain, it is possible to reach the small Church of the “Crucifix” that dominates the entire built-up area of the town almost as if watching over the tranquility of its inhabitants. In earlier times, as well as today, that humble place of prayer hosted the services of Holy Week. There, at the top of the rise, was Calvary, where a path marked by the chapels of the Way of the Cross led from the last houses. From that path climbed the penitent faithful to remind themselves of Jesus' martyrdom. The last little chapels, now abandoned and in ruins, were demolished in 1823. Continuing on a small path inside the Bosco del Crocifisso, we find an installation by Alfredo Romano, depicting the Madonna facing the sky, which mirrors a similar installation found in the City of Syracuse, a monumental Ash tree about 200 years old, and one of more than 24 Neviere.
Westward we then find the Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grazie, a late 18th-century church, but of very ancient foundation, recorded in the revelo of 1474 (contrada S. Maria) and in notarial deeds as far back as 1537. After the 1693 earthquake the church was rebuilt: the facade, bell tower and the walls and roof were restored. In 1774 the work was completed with the laying of the “balatelle” floor and the stuccoes of the vault by Nicolao Cultrera of Avola: to seal the end of the work the coat of arms of Buccheri was placed on the triumphal arch. The altar of Our Lady of the Assumption, from very ancient times present in the Church of St. Mary of Fontana Murata, was transferred to the church. This was the very ancient cult of the Assumption, practiced precisely in the little church of Fontana Murata (now a ruin) existing in the middle of the S. Maria forest, and where the faithful went in procession in case of epidemics (particularly scabies), through the use of water from a nearby spring believed to be magical.
Then in Buccheri, from Piazza Loreto, we reach the cave of St. Nicholas, a church from the Christian era carved into the rock, covered with frescoes of which some traces can still be seen today.
The name
The name of present-day Buccheri is uncertain; it may derive from the Arabic بقرة (baqara) meaning “cow,” which would lean precisely toward the meaning of “a place set aside for grazing cattle.” With even more degraded relevance, a common origin with the Sicilian word vucceri (“butcher”), which derives from the Old French bouchier (“butcher”), is also frequently cited. Alternatively, it could derive from the unknown name of an Arab person or family who once held command of the place. Finally, other hypotheses would argue that the name derives from ancient Greek, namely from the combination of the words βοῦς (boûs) and Ἥρα (Hḗrā) as indicating the place where the sacred cows of the goddess Hera grazed.
History
The area around is rich in archaeological evidence of the presence of man in ancient times: a series of pastoral huts, built with megalithic technique remind us of this presence. The myth then recalls that in these quarters the shepherd Daphnis grazed his herds and those of the gods, to the sound of the flute. Placed along the slopes of Mount Lauro (987 m a.s.l.) it saw Siculi, Romans, Byzantines and Arabs settle on its territory. It was the Normans who colonized the territory and built the castle on the hill.
The local products
Extra virgin olive oil with mono cultivar tonda iblea, an oil with intense fruitiness that in the year 2015 decreed Buccheri “World Capital of Quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil” within the international competition Sol D'Oro of Verona Fiere.
“Pani co Pipi” - Stale household bread softened with a liquid mixture of tomato extract, seasoned with oregano,chili pepper, oil and eggs.
“Cuddhuruni” - Pasta softened with water, reshuffled and seasoned with extra virgin olive oil, oregano, chili pepper and fresh basil.
“Favi Liezzi” - broad beans cooked and seasoned with onion, celery, extra virgin olive oil, tomato sauce, oregano, fresh or dried chili pepper.
“Funciddhi” - mushroom-shaped dessert made with dried fruits ( walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds), muscat or marsala, eggs, sugar and chopped tangerine peels.
“Oliva Nera di Buccheri” - Olives of the Tonda Iblea variety harvested when fully ripe and ‘sweetened’ by a dry salting process.
“Oliva a Puddhasceddha di Buccheri” - Olives harvested at the end of September sweetened, crushed, boned and seasoned with garlic, fresh mint, wine vinegar and extra virgin olive oil.
“Panifrittu cu l'uovu” - stale bread soaked in egg on both sides and fried in extra virgin olive oil with added salt and oregano.