You’d expect to get a little passionate when talking about Italian wines. Cernilli’s new book, “The Ultimate Guide to Italian Wine 2017,” is a thorough examination of the labels in Italy’s 21 major wine-producing regions. He and an army of contributors have produced a scholarly yet lively 581-page tome that’s an indispensible addition to any wine lover’s library.

But when you sit next to Cernilli and get a lively and scholarly primer while tasting some of the best wine his country produces, as I did last week at Costa Mesa’s Pizzeria Ortica, his enthusiasm is contagious. The experience would turn anyone into a fan of Italian wine. Heck, I was ready to move to Syracuse in southeastern Sicily just to be close to the Moretti Cuseri family, who produce the most bewitching Nero d’Avola I’ve ever tasted.