My mouth was full when I met the genial food historian Andrew P. Coletti at the Italian American Museum’s “Brindiamo!” He was one of two foodies who filled the buffet table with fascinating fare, as a favor to museum founder Joseph Scelsa. His fancy dried dates (stuffed with ground walnuts, pepper, honey, and sea salt) were so scrumptious that it would encourage many hosts or hostesses to start cooking as if they were expecting Julius Caesar.

How did the invitation reach an emperor (or any VIP), since engraved greetings had not yet been invented? “For an intimate party at a wealthy Roman’s mansion, it was customary to have nine guests to represent the Nine Muses,” explained Mr. Coletti. “Slaves or servants would be sent as messengers to an individual’s residence to personally invite him.”