On late summer days, a large group of mostly Italian-American men — some first-generation — gathered at the Borruso house in Endicott. They brought homemade wine, maybe cheese or prosciutto, while in the backyard Joseph Borruso roasted a goat over a wood fire. While friends reminisced and new guests were introduced, Joe cut up the meat and divided it between several giant pots to make stew. 

It was a lot of work; they were early mornings when Joe and his son, Tony Borruso, would be up getting the fire started, and they'd still be entertaining into the night. But being among the conversation and laughter while friends sipped wine and savored bites of his homemade stew over pasta were treasured moments for Joe.