Between restaurants, cookbooks and supermarket shelves, Alfredo sauces vary widely, both in style and quality. Here's a rundown of fettuccine Alfredo's history and sauce variations.
The original dish was an extra-buttery version of an Italian standard, fettuccine al burro — fettuccine with butter and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. It was created in Rome in 1914 by chef Alfredo di Lelio and served at his restaurant, Alfredo's.

Legend has it that in 1927, silent-film stars Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks discovered this dish while honeymooning in Rome. Upon returning to Hollywood, they served it to friends; soon, fettuccine Alfredo was popular — but in a new, American guise.

According to The Italian-American Cookbook by John Mariani and Galina Mariani (Harvard Common Press, $19.95), since American butter and parmesan cheese lacked the richness of their Italian counterparts, cream was added to the sauce to compensate. This version became an Italian-American classic. Although popular in the United States, it never took root in Italy.
Ultimately, Alfredo sauce became a victim of its own popularity. Supermarkets began selling ready-made Alfredo sauces, thickened with flour or cornstarch and sometimes made with cheap ingredients. Many chain restaurants began using the pre-fab sauces, too. Noodles tossed with this convenience product can't compare with this recipe for fresh fettuccine Alfredo made with Parmigiano-Reggiano, unsalted butter and fresh cream. Sure, you can make the original Roman recipe now that true Italian Parmigiano-Reggiano is widely available; but the version with cream is divine, and worthy of an occasional calorie splurge.

AMERICAN-STYLE FETTUCCINE ALFREDO
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup heavy cream
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
12 ounces fresh fettuccine (sold in the refrigerator case at supermarkets and specialty stores)
2/3 cup (packed) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
In a large stockpot, bring 4 quarts water to a boil.
While the water is heating, combine the butter, cream, nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste in a 12-inch sauté pan, and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat.
Add 1 heaping tablespoon salt and the fettuccine to the boiling water; bring back to a boil, and cook for 1 minute. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/3 cup of the cooking water.
Add the pasta to the cream sauce and toss. Sprinkle the Parmigiano-Reggiano over the pasta and toss gently for 30 seconds. If the sauce is a bit dry, add just enough of the reserved pasta water to moisten it (we didn't need to add any water). Serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings.
PER SERVING: Calories 612 (58% fat), Fat 40 g, (24 g sat), Cholesterol 187 mg, Sodium 541 mg, Fiber 3 g, Carbohydrates 49 g, Protein 16 g
SOURCE: Adapted from The Italian-American Cookbook by John Mariani and Galina Mariani (Harvard Common Press, $19.95)

by Tina Danze