by Geoffrey Foster
Foreign recipes are like the passage of secrets in a game of telephone: every whisper is slightly different from the last and when it returns to the person who started it, the meaning has changed. The recipe changes, too, in small steps—an extra dash of salt here, a tablespoon of oregano there—and before anyone realizes it, the dish bears only a passing resemblance to the original product.
There are exceptions, of course. At La Famiglia, you can walk inside knowing that the food you are about to eat uses authentic recipes and preparation methods. The restaurant's owner, Ralph Hagy, wouldn't have it any other way.
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