Some chefs dream of winning the Bocuse d’Or or getting a four-star review. Mike Isabella once told us his aspiration was to become “the next Wolfgang Puck.” So perhaps it’s no surprise the New Jersey native wasn’t cowed by the idea of a project that would make many chefs’ heads spin (or their seasonality-obsessed souls shudder): a 41,000-square-foot restaurant complex in Tysons Galleria.

To call Isabella Eatery (2001 International Dr., McLean; 571-489-8505) a food court doesn’t do it justice. Isabella has taken over roughly half of the mall’s top floor and installed ten concepts—including full-service spinoffs of his DC restaurants Graffiato and Arroz; abbreviated renditions of his Pepita taqueria and high-end French place, Requin; a take-out version of Kapnos; a coffee shop; an ice-cream stand; and a cool, octagon-shaped bar. (Can’t decide? There’s also the Dining Hall, which serves a little of everything.)