The special charms of a good Italian deli

Mar 21, 2016 580

Think of an Italian market, and what's the first image that comes to mind? A bustling, aromatic shop with huge wheels of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese on the counter and small wedges of pecorino Romano in baskets. Shelves stocked with jars of imported capers, olive oils and plump white beans. And above it all, ropes of sausage and prosciutto hams, dangling from the ceiling.

That's the scene at Vace Italian Delicatessen in Bethesda, with one exception: What's suspended overhead are regulation-size soccer balls bearing the names of various European teams. The few "hams" hanging with them are empty props.

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