Too often, the calzones at New York’s old-school pizzerias are indifferently made gut bombs. They overflow with enough bargain-bin ricotta to feed a small army of Olive Garden line cooks. But there’s nothing not to like about a good, thoughtfully made calzone, whether it’s the ostentatious, unabashedly cheesy Italian-American or the more restrained Neapolitan style.

A good crust is essential. The fillings shouldn’t be carelessly packed in, even if the stuffing is a bit over the top, and a bunch of low-grade cheese won’t cut it. Tomato sauce isn’t a must, but it never hurts. So, yes, it’s an outside-in pizza — but that doesn’t have to be a slur.