
by Paul Schultz
Anella raises a question: When does a classic become a cliché? Or vice versa? It's hard to fault a welcoming neighborhood restaurant simply because the menu is dominated by dishes from years (and even decades) past. Particularly when those plates are executed perfectly and given a fresh spin.
Anella opened in 2009 to acclaim for its warm interior and concise, seasonal menu. Josh Cohen's Greenpoint spot remained consistent even as chefs Michael Sullivan, Joseph Ogrodnek, Gabriel Moya and Todd Andrews came and went.
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