On a recent afternoon before the lunch rush at Marianna's, John Sancimino rolled his cutter through crunchy crusts of a salad pie and a saucy-striped Sicilian. The proprietor and his crew pulled pizzas hot from the oven and slid them onto metal trays with a "whoosh" of yeasty air. Despite all the deliciousness on display, it might be John's vodka pie that will draw the healthiest following.

Whether crafted into a heart-shape, presented as a round or bejeweled with garlic knots, John treats his vodka pies differently than the others. After he works the dough into a thick disc, John presses its edges into a bowl of sesame seeds. These become embedded in the edges of the crust adding a pleasant nuttiness to the dough, a roast-y contrast to its cheese and cream-touched toppings -- quite delicious.