The Turkish have kofte; the Brazilians almôndegas. Polish cooks make pulpety, the Swedes do kottbuller, and the Greeks fry keftedes. And you can find them all in New York City.

They're all meatballs. But nine times out of ten, when we talk about meatballs in New York, we're only referring to one. It's coated in red sauce and sits over bread or pasta. It's often flecked with dried oregano and hails, clearly, from Italy.

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