Linguini with clams in white sauce is as basic a dish to Brooklyn Italian neighbourhoods like Bensonhurst and Bay Ridge as is pizza. The neighbourhoods are far away from Manhattan, and the restaurants are far away from their nearest subway stations, which might be why their descendants wear their pride like the shroud protecting the Statue of Liberty, on view just across New York harbour.

But things are changing. Dom Di Faro (Di Faro Pizza) recently died, casting into question the future of his world-famous shop and Lenny’s Pizza just closed for good, leaving its featured role in Saturday Night Fever its only trace.