On a recent Friday at Daphne’s, a new Italian restaurant in Brooklyn’s Bedford-Stuyvesant neighborhood, the red sauce was green, made from chartreuse-colored tomatoes and a splash of vodka. The lasagna came in the form of noodles fried into chips, broken over a dish of beef tartare topped with shoyu-cured egg yolk.

There was a Milanese cutlet, but its crisp carapace swaddled swordfish, not veal. And the booths were neither rustic and wooden nor wrapped in red vinyl; the place’s co-owners, Gary Fishkop and Paul Cacici, had instead installed banquettes covered with custom-made buttery-soft spearmint green leather.