Chef Missy Robbins landed yet another review today for her pasta-centric restaurant Misi— this time a far more glowing one from Times critic Pete Wells, who crowned the Williamsburg Italian hit with three stars. While most of the buzz since the restaurant’s debut has focused on Robbins’ pasta making, Wells says that Misi should instead be viewed as “a pasta-vegetables-and-gelato” restaurant, placing equal emphasis on the menu’s “impressive” veggie dishes as on the pastas.

On the vegetable portion the menu, he finds a roasted globe eggplant flavored with Calabrian chiles and lemon juice that’s “soft” and “easy to spread as cream cheese.” The pickled chanterelles are “fleshy and firm,” and the panzanella made with grilled bread, capers, and fresh oregano comes with “tender” olive oil-poached chunks of zucchini. And the “gently roasted” tomatoes, now gone for the season, are dusted with fennel and coriander seeds, plus a “last-minute squirt” of spicy honey. That last dish is an example of how the chef uses few ingredients in “ways you don’t quite expect,” he writes.