Is Indaco a pizza restaurant, a purveyor of familiar Italian comfort or the archetypal restaurant one would hope to find in Rome or Fiorano? Possibly all three. Indaco’s pizza dough ferments through a four-day process and — once lightly topped with gorgeous ingredients — is fired in a wood-burning oven.

The meatballs are a vibrant example of something familiar achieving new culinary heights. And the pastas are all produced in the Indaco kitchen and served with locally farmed produce and meats, redolent with fresh herbs and true Parmesan cheese.