Once upon a time, within living memory for many of us, Italian dining meant hearty, red-sauced pasta, garlic bread, maybe a little lasagna and fake ivy on the ceiling. Then, just like that, back in the ‘70s, Italian went upscale. Before we knew it we were all gaga about what we called Northern Italian cuisine, with nary a drop of marinara in sight.

But in our hearts we know we still crave the comforting, old-school, family-style Italian-American fare, don’t we? If you’re suddenly craving some ravioli or chicken parm — and pizza of course — then here’s my advice: Head for Milantoni Italian Restaurant and mangia, mangia, mangia!