Pizzana, a Neapolitan-style pizza chain newly arrived on Knox Street, is serious about its crust. I knew this a few ways before walking into the door: because the chain’s founder, Daniele Uditi, prefers to use a slow-rising 48-hour ferment for his dough, because the legendary Los Angeles Times critic Jonathan Gold was a huge fan of the original location, and because one of Dallas’ most renowned pizza makers told me over the phone how excited he was to try Uditi’s work.

That crust may make the restaurant’s reputation, but the rest of the Pizzana experience spins off to less traditional directions. The toppings themselves are often quite creative. The menu design incorporates a stylized map of Naples. The dining room is a small, slick, modern cube, and, because of its size and a bright spotlight of press coverage, you’d be wise to book a reservation.