No one inside Caterina’s Ristorante had any idea that it was raining sideways in Fort Worth. The red-sauce joint is windowless, a secluded spot that feels like it belongs in New York. And Caterina’s has a no-cellphones policy — surely, you’ve heard? — so none of us received weather alerts or texts from friends as the rain blew in. I didn’t even know what time it was. I didn’t take a single photo of my food.

That’s all part of the calculated experience at Caterina’s, chef Tim Love’s latest creation in a city where he rules restaurants. He can take risks — like asking people to put their phones in one of those little locked pouches — now that he’s spent over two decades bringing people to the Fort Worth Stockyards, originally to his first restaurant, Lonesome Dove.