Parmigiano-Reggiano is one of the world’s most famous and beloved cheeses, yet its birthplace is rarely one of the first places that people think of when planning a trip to Italy. What a shame. Despite living in Rome for five years and visiting Italy dozens of times before that, it took me years to get to Parma, but when I finally did, I realized what an incredible place I’d been missing. Located in Emilia-Romagna, about an hour from Bologna, Parma is at the heart of Italy’s Food Valley. In fact, it’s recognized by UNESCO as a Creative City for Gastronomy.

Parma traces its roots back to ancient Rome, but it entered a golden age when it became part of the Duchy of Parma and Piacenza in 1545. Under the Farnese dukes, the city became wealthy and powerful. Renaissance painters like Correggio and Parmigianino left their mark, decorating palaces and churches that are still must-visit spots today.