Native to the Mediterranean basin, agretti (Salsola soda) is a crop particularly beloved by Italians, who both forage for and cultivate it. Yet the needle-like leaves (similar to chives) of this vegetable –also known as saltwort or monk’s beard (from the Italian barba di frate) – remain a rare sight on British menus.

Its succulent leaves – which taste savoury and a touch bitter, with a hint of brininess – may not be to everyone’s taste, but it is worth giving it a go – for the challenge of successfully cultivating a somewhat tricky plant.