Balsamic vinegar has a near ubiquitous presence in American food culture: You’ll find it on menus at high-end Italian restaurants, in plastic packets of fast-food dressing, and at salad bars across the country. Its iconic sweet-and-sour flavor is suitable for robust vinaigrettes, meat marinades, charcuterie condiments, and dessert toppings.

Even Elmo loves to cook with it. But there’s a wide range in quality—and price. How do you know which balsamic vinegar is worth a couple of dollars and which bottles live up to their hundred dollar price tags? To understand how to buy and source good balsamic vinegar, we spoke with Dino Borri, VP of Eataly and expert on Italian food exports. Find the fundamentals of shopping for the beloved ingredient below.