Testaccio has been a destination for Roman food lovers for thousands of years and its traditional, culinary prowess is still what draws most visitors to the local neighborhood. Set in a curve in the Tiber River across from Trastevere, the Rome neighborhood is just barely far enough outside the historic center to remain under the radar but spending a day in the quartiere is one of the best ways to discover the Rome of true Romans.

It also happens to be my home in Rome. This is the area of the city where I have lived for seven years and where I spend the majority of my days. From the famous covered market to unexpected contemporary art, ancient ruins and the best of the cucina romana, here is how to experience experience the neighborhood of Testaccio, Rome from morning to night.