It's sunset in Rome, outside the city walls. Golden light filters through umbrella pines and casts its glow on a straight stretch of smooth basalt stones that changed the course of history. This is the Appian Way, the first road built in Rome, where more than 2,000 years ago soldiers set out to conquer distant lands and returned in triumph.

The road is the heart of Rome's Appia Antica Archaeological Park, an expansive green wedge that stretches from the edge of the city's historical centre to the hillside villages of the Castelli Romani. This 4,700-hectare oasis is the second largest urban park in Europe – dotted with aqueducts, nature reserves, archaeological sites, vineyards, pastures and villas owned by such luminaries as designer Valentino and actress Gina Lollobrigida.