Like all major European capitals, Rome’s touristy neighborhoods are hard to avoid or, sometimes, resist. After a journey of missed connections, jumbled travel directions and mangled language if you’re not an Italian speaker, it’s tempting to fall into a neighborhood like Trastevere, where English is widely spoken and familiar menu items can entice you to give in and settle for something comfortable. But, don’t.

If you want to eat and drink like a Roman, get off the beaten track. Just across the river, the adjoining historically working-class neighborhoods of Testaccio and Ostiense have bloomed in the past decade, becoming destinations for more authentic eating and drinking. They’re no secret to the well-traveled set or frequent visitors to Rome, but you’ll see few fanny-packers, selfie sticks and white sneakers here.