According to the Neapolitan proverb ‘meglio murì sazzio ca campà diùno’, it’s better to die full than live hungry. Eating and drinking here is a ritual that’s been linking the city’s neighbourhoods for centuries — in the streets in the form of pizza al portafoglio, on the tables of trattorias as a plate of pasta, potatoes and provola cheese and at the counter of bars serving espresso all day long. Neapolitan food is part of the vitality of the city, and one of its defining aspects.

Naples is also the Italian city that’s evolved most in recent decades, notably when it comes to its food and drink. Diners enjoy an endless array of options, including fusion food, fine dining and Neapolitan street food — the latter a smorgasbord spanning such delicacies as the panino napoletano (a soft-bread sandwich filled with cured meats and cheeses), parigina (stuffed pizza) and fried pizza from restaurants such as of La Masardona on Piazza Vittoria.