On the Amalfi Coast in July, the single road that threads the cliffs is jammed by mid-morning: buses back up above Positano, the overlooks are packed, and for much of the peak season, the coast road allows cars only on alternating days based on license plate numbers.
Plenty of people still make the trip and count it as worth the crowds, but others who have done it once are looking elsewhere. A lot of them are American, and the ones going deepest are driving past the coast entirely, into the quieter interior of Italy’s deep south.
