At Bestia Mare—that’s Sea Beast in Italian—he’s turned his focus to the coastal fare of Italy. With delicious dishes, including mussels steamed in fragrant tomato-shellfish brodo, baby clams in a tangle of fresh house-made pasta, and whole branzino grilled over a woodfire brushed in salmoriglio (a Sicilian lemon-oregano sauce), there’s plenty to satisfy even the most beastly appetites.

Catty-corner to its older sibling on historic Main Street, the seafood restaurant and rooftop bar shares Pullara hallmarks: a bustling open kitchen with counter seating, a convivial main dining room, a more intimate bar with beautiful up-lighting highlighting the lineup of bottles on the shelves. There’s also a curated roster of Italian wines, and a dedication to local and sustainable ingredients.