Depending on how die-hard the annual traditionalist or curious the newcomer, on Christmas Eve morning, Philly’s Italian Market will start seeing long lines for its specialty goods before 6 a.m. That’s the deal. You want something? Get up early. Brave the cold.

No line, however, will be longer and louder than the one for Ninth Street’s oldest shop, Di Bruno Bros., started in 1939 by Danny and Joe Di Bruno, and specializing in imported gourmet cheese and cured meats. “That’s the holiday tradition, I can’t wait,” said Emilio Mignucci, one of three Mignucci cousins (with Billy Jr. and Bill) who took over Di Bruno’s from its then-retiring founders in 1990.