When it’s August in northern Italy, you have two options: suffocate or hit the water. But where to go? The beaches are taken, holidaymakers crammed onto their sunloungers like glazed sardines. And the lakes? Como’s full of Americans chasing George Clooney. Maggiore’s lovely yet busy. Garda? Crowded too, I’m afraid. Orta and Idro are too small. Just right? That’ll be Iseo.

Midway between Como and Garda, with the province of Bergamo on the western side and Brescia opposite, Lake Iseo is Italy in miniature. Vines dangle on southern hillsides; snow dapples ragged mountains to the north; pretty towns stroke the waterfront; there’s art and history; there is swimming, eating and loafing. Here, la vita is truly dolce.