From Bloomfield Avenue in Caldwell, the grand entrance marking the boundary of the Calandra's compound is difficult to miss. Even the parking lot is generous -- drivers may jockey for the best spots, but it's a casual sport. Here, as at the mall, no one need worry about finding a space.

Inside Il Vecchio Cafe, the generosity continues. The warm, freshly baked bread is never-ending; there's a fresh bake every hour, and one basket arrives as soon as an earlier one empties. The bread is served with olive oil, Calandra's own brand, a clean, earthy oil, with a slightly sharp, nutty endnote. It's simple excellence.