Tucked into a mauve velveteen banquette, I gaze across the vast dining room, with its gilded chandeliers, framed photos of famous Italians, and painted mural of a seaside Italian village. Yet what captures my attention are the other diners here at Ristorante Lucca & Piano Lounge in Bordentown. The men wear sports jackets, many with ties. The women are swathed in silk dresses, spangly tops and high heels.

Soon after being seated at a white-clothed table set with sterling silver and elegant glassware, all imported from Italy, we are handed menus that light up when opened. As the evening progresses, several staff members, sporting formal attire and Italian accents, deliver complimentary amuse-bouches, suggest wine pairings, prepare tableside Caesar salad, filet our fish, sauce our meat, or just check how things are going.