Both Balistreri’s, the Inn on Bluemound and the Ristorante in Wauwatosa, are known for their pizza, but the restaurant I visited on Bluemound is far more than a typical pizza joint. When you step inside and see the polished wooden railing, the elegant, curved bar that defines one of the dining rooms, the old-fashioned light fixtures, and tables set with white cloths, you know that with such attention to detail, there will be some tasty Italian cuisine.

After two lunchtime visits, friends and I concluded the ambiance falls somewhere in the middle of supper club, fine dining, and German Rathskeller. Our table was lovely, set with glass water goblets, a white tablecloth, and a charming Christmas decoration that added seasonal joy. As soon as we were seated our server brought a basket of bread with a pitcher of olive oil and a container filled with soft butter, an improvement over the little butter briquets often presented with a bread basket.