For this avid fan of chef Vincent Cessna’s sublime Italian food, it’s been a frustrating road. In February 2015, Cessna opened Vincent’s Pastaria in the former Angello’s location across from Central Catholic High School.

It was here that I first experienced the wonderfulness of his housemade pasta and sauces, fresh-baked bread and exemplary meatballs, of which he was selling 600-plus a week. I gave the restaurant a rave review. And by year’s end, the place was closed, a startling development considering its frequently packed parking lot.