By John Golden

Often it's all in the delivery.
Some years ago I invited a spirited lady friend to join me for lunch at a fashionable cafe in midtown Manhattan. She was a dead ringer in speech, looks and manner for the character, Alexis, played by Joan Collins in the epic TV drama, "Dynasty."

She breezed in, took a quick look around and said, "My dear, if I didn't know it was chic, I wouldn't have known." Fast-forward to Portland, walking into Piccolo, the brainchild of wunderkind chef Damian Sansonetti, mightn't my friend have proclaimed, "If I didn't know it was such a temple of gastronomy, I wouldn't have known!"

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