Fine Italian and upscale pizza are all the rage, and often in the same nook (Source and Gufo, to name two). But you can find old-school Italian comfort this side of the river too, in the long-established Gran Gusto and Trattoria Pulcinella.

We’ve extolled the virtues of Gran Gusto (big fan of the O’Re truffle pizza), so we now shine the light on Pulcinella, ensconced in its intimate digs for some 30 years and serving to cafe-style tables with white tablecloths. Most every night you’ll have owner Maria Oliva there to greet you and stop by your table for a friendly chat. She opened the restaurant with her late husband Gian, originally from Naples.