When I’m lucky on a restaurant visit, there will come a moment when I sit up straighter in my chair, eyes widened, nerve endings at attention. That’s when I’ve tasted something that isn’t just good, but crazy-good — the kind of dish I will think about later.

I experienced three of those moments at Amore Italian Restaurant, the 6-month-old venture from longtime Da Marco chef Alfredo Mojica and his wife, Christina. Number one: a rose-blush tuna al taglio, its supple slices of raw fish brought to life with black sesame seeds, tendrils of freshly grated horseradish root, sea salt and a spark of lemon. Suddenly the hot summer evening sang.